A healthy treat! Exercise classes from dawn to dusk, but all the food and drink you could possibly want – it’s no wonder this St Lucia resort remains as popular as ever

My friend Neil and his wife are regulars at BodyHoliday on St Lucia’s north coast. Or, at least, they were until their little girl arrived – because this family-owned resort of nearly 40 years is strictly over-12s only year-round.

“Any suggestions on things to do locally?” I asked Neil.

“Not really,” he said. “In all the years we’ve been going, I think we’ve only left the place once.”

Each to his own. But I cannot fathom how people like Neil are not obliged to see what is beyond the gates.

Maybe it has something to do with the years I spent locked up in boarding school and yearning to roam the big, bad world more freely.

Actually, the boarding school analogy works to some extent at BodyHoliday. There is a lot to do; you can learn new sports or brush up on old ones and there’s a good chance you’ll make some chumps too.

Mind you, the food is a far cry from boarding school fare, with several restaurants including a pan-Asian one called Tao (reservations recommended) and Cariblue Windows (reservations essential).

There are several categories of rooms, including some exclusively for those on their own. Which strikes me as a nice touch. What’s more, singles don’t pay a top-up – very nice touch.

Our billet overlooks the wide and inviting beach, with swaying palm trees, circling pelicans, and comes with its own plunge pool.

‘Give us your body for a week and we’ll give you back your mind,’ is the mantra and it’s a clever one. It tells you that this is ostensibly a health retreat, with classes (all voluntary) starting at 7.15am with ‘Beach Fit’ and all day until 5pm with ‘sunset restorative yoga’.

But according to the GM’s welcome letter, ‘giving in is also part of achieving a balanced holiday experience’. So, alleluia, there is no food or drink deprivation and all inclusive means beer, wine and spirits 24 hours a day.

One of the big selling points is that everyone gets one treatment for every full day of his or her stay.

As a result, there are more than 40 therapists working in the large spa. I was expecting some gentle strokes, with a bit of pungent coconut oil, but get nothing of the sort. Indeed, my deep tissue massage on day one is the best ever and had me crying for mercy halfway through. No gain without pain.

With so much on offer, the atmosphere is purposeful, but I’m talking to an American with an even bigger belly than mine, barely moving from his sun lounger, while his wife scurries around like she’s desperate to attend every class.

“I barely see her during the day,” he says. “Absence makes the heart grow fonder.”

BodyHoliday is about 30 minutes from the capital, Castries, and its Saturday market. To miss it is a dereliction of duty. All life is here, including chickens whose lives, conversely, will soon be over; shriveled old men selling home-grown vegetables; rastas trade in wacky-backy; baskets; potions and lotions.

Also near BodyHoliday is Pigeon Island, reached via a waterway built in 1972. The main attraction is Fort Rodney, built on the orders of Admiral George Rodney between 1779 and 1782, mainly to spy on French ships from neighboring Martinique.

It’s a steep climb up to the top platform, where some rusted cannons stand guard, but the panoramic views are worth it.

St Lucians are gentle, polite and enriched by a lively sense of humour. This is definitely what we love about the staff at BodyHoliday. I have no doubt that this hugely popular resort caught the eye of corporate giants – but, thankfully, the British owners resisted the temptation to cash in.

Long may this be the case. It might not be the catchiest of names – but BodyHoliday is homely, expertly run and a lot of fun.