Would YOU put Saudi Arabia on your bucket list? MailOnline discovers what it’s like to be a tourist there and enters the ancient oasis city transformed into a luxury holiday destination


An ancient oasis city is transformed into a luxury holiday destination by Saudi Arabia hoping to attract wealthy tourists to what was once one of the world’s least visited countries.

Just over four years after the Kingdom announced in 2019 that it was opening up to non-religious visitors for the very first time, billions of pounds have been invested across the country in a bid to jump-start its fledgling tourism economy.

AlUla, located in Saudi Arabia’s northwestern Medina province, has seen its fair share of this cash and has been radically renovated from a 2,000-year-old oasis city into a lavish modern retreat for luxury tourists.

Along with the world famous Banyan Tree Resort, AlUla boasts a newly built Our Habitas hotel where guests can stay in a private tented villa and enjoy stunning views of the exceptional Ashar Valley for £1,300 ($1,686) per night.

The luxury desert resort is so large that each guest has a electric bike to get around or can call a golf cart to whisk them away to the large infinity pool, restaurant and spa offering a range of traditional Middle Eastern wellness treatments.

It is also located just a stone’s throw from one of the region’s hubs – the dazzling Maraya Concert Hall which, since its completion in 2020, is officially the world’s largest mirrored building, and one that has hosted international stars including Usher, Alicia Keys and John Legend.

Both the Old City and the rugged volcanic mountaintops that overlook AlUla also offer visitors world-class cuisine thanks to a number of high-profile restaurants that have set up shop in the newly created captive market of fine dining.

There are a variety of choices for a decadent meal under illuminated palm trees, but one recent notable addition is the newly opened restaurant of 21-Michelin-starred French chef Alain Ducasse.

Daisy Graham-Brown visits AlUla, in Saudi Arabia's northwestern Medina province, and discovers how it is being radically renovated into a tourist hotspot. She stays at the newly built Our Habitas hotel (above), which boasts a large infinity pool in a dramatic setting

Daisy Graham-Brown visits AlUla, in Saudi Arabia’s northwestern Medina province, and discovers how it is being radically renovated into a tourist hotspot. She stays at the newly built Our Habitas hotel (above), which boasts a large infinity pool in a dramatic setting

At Our Habitas, guests can stay in a private tented villa, as pictured, and enjoy stunning views of the sweeping Ashar Valley for £1,300 ($1,686) a night.

At Our Habitas, guests can stay in a private tented villa, as pictured, and enjoy stunning views of the sweeping Ashar Valley for £1,300 ($1,686) a night.

The dazzling Maraya Concert Hall in AlUla, above, is officially the world's largest mirrored building

The dazzling Maraya Concert Hall in AlUla, above, is officially the world’s largest mirrored building

His AlUla venture places a ‘Camel confit’ and a number of other regional delicacies at the heart of the extensive tasting menu.

But while Saudi Arabia has relaxed its strict Islamic dress codes for women, meaning they no longer have to wear all-black clothing, would-be tourists should be aware that they won’t be enjoying a glass of wine as the sale of alcohol continues stay firm. illegal, even in hotels.

The restaurants compensate for this with their dry ‘mixologists’, such as at the Somewhere restaurant in the Old Town, who create custom mocktails that go perfectly with each course.

This is perhaps why AlUla should be considered the Dry January destination for wealthy westerners looking for a warm but sober winter escape, with daytime temperatures sitting at a comfortable 26 degrees.

Although an unimaginable amount of money has been pumped into the region’s luxury offerings, the real draw of AlUla is its history.

The best of these is undoubtedly Hegra, a Unesco World Heritage Site which is the largest preserved site of the Nabatean civilization south of Petra in Jordan.

Huge tombs carved into the side of red rock stretch for miles and kilometers as visitors are taken on a tour through time in vintage Land Rovers to explore the stories of the Nabataeans.

And there’s no shortage of activities either, from helicopter rides to ziplining and hiking. However, the standout activity is watching the sunset through the magnificent Elephant Rock before being taken to the desert – an hour away from any light source – to enjoy Gharamael star gazing.

AlUla Old Town, above, overlooked by rugged volcanic peaks

AlUla Old Town, above, overlooked by rugged volcanic peaks

There is no shortage of activities, from helicopter rides to ziplining and hiking

While AlUla is seriously trying to cater to an international audience, a focal point has become the AlUla Tour, a five-day professional cycling race (above)

Daisy discovers that there is no shortage of activities, from helicopter rides (left) to ziplining and hiking. As AlUla tries seriously to cater to an international audience, a focal point has become the AlUla Tour, a five-day professional cycling race (right)

The standout activity, says Daisy, is watching the sunset through the magnificent Elephant Rock (above) before taking it to the desert

The standout activity, says Daisy, is watching the sunset through the magnificent Elephant Rock (above) before taking it to the desert

The real draw of AlUla is its history, notes Daisy, who adds: 'The best of it is undoubtedly Hegra (above), a Unesco World Heritage site which is the largest preserved site of the Nabatean civilization south of Petra in Jordan.'

The real draw of AlUla is its history, notes Daisy, who adds: ‘The best of it is undoubtedly Hegra (above), a Unesco World Heritage site which is the largest preserved site of the Nabatean civilization south of Petra in Jordan.’

Enjoy stargazing at Gharameel, 'where visitors lie on their backs, wrapped in layers of thick blankets, as an astronomer tells them the ancient Arabic myths of the constellations above'

Enjoy stargazing at Gharameel, ‘where visitors lie on their backs, wrapped in layers of thick blankets, as an astronomer tells them the ancient Arabic myths of the constellations above’

Here, visitors lie on their backs, wrapped in layers of thick blankets, as an astronomer tells them the ancient Arabic myths of the constellations above.

While staying true to its local traditions, AlUla is undoubtedly trying in all seriousness to cater to an international audience.

A focal point has the AlUla TourA five-day professional cycling race run by award-winning Tour de France organizers ASO (Amaury Sport Organisation), where riders battle it out across stunning desert vistas and up steep volcanic mountains.

This is just one of many investments the country has made in an effort to globalize itself and increase its appeal.

Saudi Arabia won’t be on everyone’s bucket list, and perhaps for good reason. But with deep enough pockets and a desire to see somewhere truly unique – maybe it should be.

For more visit www.experiencealula.com/en. For more information on the AlUla Tour bike race visit www.thealulatour.com/en. Visit ducasse-alula.com to find out more about the Alain Ducasse restaurant.



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