When Henry VIII converted Leeds Castle into a Tudor palace, little could he have imagined that it would become an attraction with half a million annual visitors and a cafe serving high teas with smoked salmon sandwiches and prosecco.
But it did.
Tourists flock to see the love nest Henry renovated for his first wife Catherine of Aragon in 1519, below, on the site of a Norman fortress.
Before his reign, the fortress was primarily known as a home (willing or otherwise) to a succession of queens.
The first, Eleanor of Castile from 1278, installed a medieval writing room for copying manuscripts.
Laura Sharman visits Leeds Castle, the love nest that Henry VIII renovated in 1519 for his first wife, Catherine of Aragon
Leeds Castle has become an attraction with half a million annual visitors
Before Henry’s reign, the fortress was primarily known as a home (willing or otherwise) to a succession of queens
Meanwhile, Queen Joan of Navarre was imprisoned there in 1419 for witchcraft.
Its last female owner in the 1920s, Lady Baillie, was known for throwing lavish parties for politicians, social groups and Hollywood stars, calling it ‘the perfect place to spend a weekend’.
Almost a century later, much the same can be said.
As you enter the dining room to the sound of swing music, it’s easy to imagine Charlie Chaplin, one of Lady Baillie’s guests, standing by a tower of champagne glasses – just like the one in the window today aiming for is to capture the essence of that turbulent period. .
Set in the rolling Kentish countryside (the M20 doesn’t cut too far through), the castle is surrounded by two pleasant villages listed in the Domesday Book.
The nearest is tiny Broomfield, home to two fine Tudor cottages, while the highlight of delightful Hollingbourne – just north – is All Saints Church, which dates from the 14th century.
It contains an excellent 17th century embroidery depicting fruit trees and cherubs.
For lunch, look no further than the Black Horse Inn in the village of Thurnham, just north of Hollingbourne.
Laura stays at a lakeside lodge in the grounds of Leeds Castle
Laura enjoys the view from an outdoor bath at her lodge, pictured, and wonders ‘what Henry VIII would make of it’
Queen Joan of Navarre was imprisoned in Leeds Castle in 1419 for witchcraft. Above is the castle’s maze
Laura recommends stopping for lunch at the Black Horse Inn, pictured, in the nearby village of Thurnham
This atmospheric 18th-century pub, which also has rooms, serves first-class lamb roasts on Sundays.
The countryside is crisscrossed with excellent walking routes, one of which follows the Pilgrims Way through the North Downs.
We choose a 90 minute loop past oast houses and a vineyard.
Back at our lakeside lodge, in the grounds of Leeds Castle, we enjoy views of the lake from our outdoor bath – and wonder what Henry VIII would make of it all.
