The Mayans believed in many gods. They were also highly literate, architecturally advanced, and developed a system of mathematics that included one of the earliest examples of zero.
Today, in their former Yucatan heartland – and especially along the Caribbean coast nearby Mexicose heaving Cancun – the worship is focused on one thing and one profitable thing only: tourism. The math is all about the bottom line.
Most of the architecture isn’t exactly subtle, but what an extraordinary stretch of coast it is, on and on for nearly 100 miles, punctuated by grand hotels, mostly all-inclusive, sunk into powdery white sand.
It strikes me as a Las Vegas-on-Sea experience with a pinch of Dubai And what makes the whole confection so extraordinary is that the iguanas, eggs and herons had the place to themselves until the 1970s.
My first stop is the all-inclusive Grand Palladium Costa Mujeres Resort & Spa, about half an hour north of Cancun. Actually, it is three hotels – one just for families – within the same large complex and with almost 1,300 rooms.
There are shops, a theater, man-made lakes, about 20 restaurants, a Roman Catholic chapel, convention center, Rafa Nadal tennis center and large spa.
Most of my fellow guests are Americans. “Where are you all from?” a man wearing a T-shirt that says ‘I’m American by choice’ asks a group of forty.
‘Chicago,’ replied one of them. ‘Beautiful. Let’s meet for a drink guys.’
On a visit to Mexico’s Yucatan Peninsula, Mark Palmer stays at the all-inclusive Grand Palladium Costa Mujeres Resort & Spa (pictured)
Mark takes a day trip to Tulum (pictured), home to Mayan ruins and natural swimming holes
But where? There are 25 bars scattered around the place, the most popular being the one that swims up in the adults-only pool, where the main activity is standing in the water with a plastic cup from noon to 8pm.
There is no swim-up bar about an hour south, towards Tulum, at Chable Maroma. It’s a completely different proposition, with 70 villas nestled among the mangrove forest and exotic palms, each cleverly hidden and all given Mayan names.
“The mangroves protect us from hurricanes,” says the man who takes me to my bar. Along the way we stop at the spa and I’m invited to participate in a short Mayan ceremony to clear away any lingering negativity.
It involves burning wood, breathing deeply and holding my hands outstretched with palms open as if receiving a gift. Which is fitting, because my two nights here were completely spoiled, aided by charming staff, delicious food and genuine service.
At breakfast one morning I watch an osprey pluck a fish from the sea and fly past triumphantly.
During the day I swim in the warmest sea and learn from the resident biologist about the efforts made to restore the coral on the reef, which is the second longest in the world after Australia’s Great Barrier Reef.
I’m not meant to snorkel because my ears are fuzzy, but I can’t resist when there’s a chance to explore what lies beneath about 400 meters from the shore. It almost feels intrusive when disturbing schools of bright fish displaying all the colors of the rainbow.
Above, a local girl participates in the annual Day of the Dead festival
Mark checks in at Chable Maroma (seen here), which offers a collection of 70 villas
Divine: The expansive pool at Chable Maroma
Relations between America and Mexico are difficult, especially along the border. The juxtaposition is that while the US federal government is trying – and failing – to stem the tide of migrants, the traffic the other way from Americans on vacation is getting heavier.
Heading to Tulum on a day trip, my expert guide Silvia deals with the growing threat of Mexico’s drug cartels by saying, ‘When you have Americans who want to consume, there will always be people who want to supply.’ It’s 43C (109F) when Silvia and I huddle under her umbrella in front of the main Tulum castle, built in the early 12th century when Mayans went in for human sacrifices. Last week, researchers discovered another lost Mayan city, which they named Valeriana, near the interior of Calakmul.
Much of the seaweed is made in this area, but minimal during my stay – and at Chable Maroma it is picked up every morning.
Mexico is famous for its cenotes – sunken pools of water – and we stop at Gran Cenote, not far from Tulum. I find it an overwhelming experience, although the clear, cool water is instantly refreshing. There are about 8,000 cenotes in this part of the country.
On my last night at Chable Maroma, I dine at Bullo, which made the Michelin guide.
But first I sit in the Raw Bar on the roof and watch the sun set behind the Caribbean Sea. The bartender told me the night before that his margaritas were the best in the entire Yucatan Peninsula. I’m no expert, but the first one slides off effortlessly – the second even more so. Throw in the beautiful surroundings, with a gentle blowing breeze courtesy of swaying chit palm trees, and I’m not sure how this cocktail of pleasure can be topped.
